Juan Agulló Artero

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José Antonio F. Alejo

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José Antonio Tarí

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Jaime A. Albentosa

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Fco. Javier Marcos

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José L. Trasobares

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expedicion 1

El Cho Oyu “se ha rendido a nuestros pies”

DIARIO DE LA EXPEDICIÓN, eventosSeptiembre 29, 2009

cumbre

José Antonio Tarí y Jaime Antón en la cumbre del
CHO - OYU 8.201 METROS DE ALTURA.
26 - septiemnbre - 2009.

“El Cho Oyu se ha rendido a nuestros pies”

 

Los alpinistas ilicitanos del RETO EVEREST que alcanzaron la sexta cumbre más alta del planeta de 8.201 m. el pasado sábado en el Himalaya Nepalí, hos relatamos nuestra aventura.

José Antonio Tarí y Jaime Antón nos escriben diciendo que, “después de llevar varias noches en los campamentos de altura, junto con los demás compañeros de equipo para instalar el campo III, y pese a que la lógica en altura debíamos descender al campo base con el fin de recuperar antes de atacar la cumbre, vimos que nos encontrábamos físicamente bien y, con el fin de aprovechar una ventana de buen tiempo prevista para el 25 y 26 de septiembre, decidimos permanecer un día y medio en el campo I (a 6.400 m. sabiendo que ésta no es una altura en la que el cuerpo se recupera totalmente), y así partir el 24 de septiembre hacia el campo II (a 7.100 m.), llegando el día 25 al campo III (a 7.500 m.) y poder lanzar el ataque a la cima el 26 de septiembre. “

“Mientras ascendíamos al campo III, el buen tiempo prometido se estropeó y una ventisca con nevada nos complicó bastante la llegada a la última tienda de altura. Allí pasamos unas horas sin poder pegar ojo, escuchando la ventisca golpear la tienda toda la noche y la nevada que iba cubriendo la tienda, riéndonos del pronóstico que se había dado para ese día.”

cerca-de-cumbre

 
Subiendo a la cumbre desde el campo III.
26 - septiembre - 2009.

“A la 1 de la madrugada, sin haber podido dormir una sola hora, comenzamos a derretir nieve para preparar un desayuno y los termos que llevaríamos durante la ascensión. Poco a poco vimos cómo la nevada y el viento iban cesando por completo. A las 4:00 h. partimos finalmente del campo III hacia cumbre, mientras nos cruzábamos con algún sherpa y su cliente enfundado con su máscara de oxígeno, que regresaba exhausto tras haberse atemorizado en una banda de rocas que hay que superar mediante algún paso de escalada mixta, asegurado a una cuerda fija allí instalada.”

“A las 12:30 h. y tras soportar un cansancio extremo y temor a congelaciones de algunos dedos de los pies (que sólo quedó en eso), hollamos los 8.201 m., la sexta cumbre más alta del planeta, extendiendo la bandera ilicitana en lo alto de esta montaña. Tras las 8 horas y media de ascenso, tuvimos que reservar fuerzas para bajar al campo II, donde pudimos descansar después de 5 horas de descenso.”

 

bajando-de-cumbre

 
Bajando de la cumbre al campo III.
26 - septiembre - 2009.

“Nuestros compañeros Juan Agulló, Alejo, Francis y Traso, tras descansar tres días a 5.700 m. en el campo base, han partido hoy hacia los campos de altura, con el fin de poder alcanzar la cumbre del Cho-Oyu el 1 de octubre para rematar el éxito de esta expedición para todo el alpinismo ilicitano.”



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